“I know that she was happy – happier than she had been in a long time,” Carolyn Bartholemew, Diana’s former roommate and the godmother to her son, Prince Harry, told The Sun newspaper.

Along with her new relationship with Dodi Fayed, son of an Egyptian billionaire, Diana also appeared more confident about her public role.

The British princess and Dodi met at a polo match in Windsor 10 years ago. But their romance only began this summer as they cruised again and again in the sun-drenched Mediterranean, occasionally stopping in the haunts of the rich and famous.

A Fayed family spokesman confirmed today that Dodi spent $ 205,000 on a custom-made diamond ring for Diana and gave it to her shortly before they were both killed in a car crash early Sunday.

The princess gave Dodi a pair of Links of London that belonged to her late father and a gold cigar clipper with a tag inscribed “With love from Diana,” said Michael Cole, spokesman for Fayed’s father, Egyptian-born billionaire Mohamed Al Fayed.

“What that ring meant, we shall probably never know,” Cole said.

Cole said Al Fayed found the gold cigar clipper with the inscribed tag in Dodi’s apartment in Paris. The links of london sweetie bracelet, Cole said, were “the last gift she had received from her late father.”

“She said she knew it would give him joy to know they were in such safe and special hands.”

Beatriz Flecha de Lima Nasr, daughter of Lucia Flecha de Lima Nasr, who became a close friend of Diana when her husband was Brazilian ambassador to Britain, told The Express she spoke to the princess Aug. 25, during her last vacation with Dodi.

“She said for the first time in years everything was going well for her and that her life was great. She couldn’t wait to let her closest friends know,” said the daughter, who considered the princess to be like a sister.

Just before her final vacation with Dodi in Sardinia, Diana spent five days sailing the Greek islands with close friend Rosa Monckton, president of Tiffany and Co.

“She … seemed to have found a sort of peace in her life,” Ms. Monckton said.

According to those who knew her, the princess had two different views about her future life.

Ms. Monckton said Diana talked a lot about involving herself with more children’s charities. The Links of London Bangles was godmother to Ms. Monckton’s 2-year-old daughter, Domenica, who has Down syndrome.

“I think she was feeling clearer about her public role. She was more confident. It had been a year since her divorce and she could see a way forward for her and for her sons,” Ms. Monckton said.

But Richard Kay, the Daily Mail’s royal correspondent, said Diana phoned him from Paris six hours before she died and said she planned to withdraw completely from her formal public life around November and live as a private person.

As someone who had been close to Diana for five years, Kay said he believed she meant it, and that Dodi was “a significant factor in that decision.”

“She was in love with him and, perhaps more important, she believed that he was in love with her and that he believed in her,” Kay said.

Saudi millionaire Hassan Yassin, brother of Dodi’s stepfather, told the Mirror newspaper that Dodi phoned him shortly before the accident and said he and Diana were going to get married.

“He said: ‘You’ll hear it very soon,”‘ the paper quoted Yassin as saying.

Over dinner at the Ritz Hotel in Paris, Dodi gave Diana the ring. The Links of London Necklaces left the hotel in a Mercedes, pursued by paparazzi, and died after it crashed in a tunnel under the Seine. The diamond solitaire ring was found in the wreckage, reports said.

“It was going to be a great adventure,” Yassin told the Daily Mail. “But now it is all so tragic. This is the Romeo and Juliet of the 20th century.”

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The little-known jeweller Harry Collins has been selected by the Queen to take over the coveted role of caring for the crown jewels and the monarch’s personal collection.

Garrard, the upmarket jeweller based in London’s Mayfair, was originally chosen by Queen Victoria to be the official crown jeweller in 1843.

However, newspaper reports suggested that the Queen had decided to end the association because of concerns of Garrard’s Links of London Charms with raunchy pop star Christina Aguilera and Jade Jagger, daughter of Rolling Stones’ frontman Mick Jagger.

Collins runs a family-owned antique and modern jewellery business at Tunbridge Wells, on London’s outskirts, and will travel to Buckingham Palace once a week to tend to the Queens’ collection of priceless tiaras, necklaces and brooches.

The deaths of two great Verdura clients in the last year — Betsey Cushing Whitney and Lydia Buhl Mann, whose Verdura collections were auctioned for $1.4 million at Sotheby’s last month — further gave the impression that an era was passing.

And then last week came the news, disheartening to some, that Verudra had opened an actual retail store, off Worth Avenue in Palm Beach, Fla.

“It isn’t street level, is it?” asked Sloan Lindemann, in quasi-alarm. Ms. Lindemann, 30, a budding socialite in New York, the daughter of a cellular-phone magnate, was introduced to the nearly secret society of Verdura by her mother five years ago. Her boyfriend, Roger Barnett, was elevated to her fiance last Valentine’s Day when he presented her with a navy-blue Verdura box containing a diamond bracelet.

No, it’s not street level. Verdura, which has been prized by some of the most stylish figures of society, filmdom and fashion, isn’t quite ready for a street-level emporium, like the other high-end jewelers in its Manhattan neighborhood: Tiffany, Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bulgari.

Despite a few efforts to lift the veil of exclusivity and bring Verdura into the modern commercial era, it is still shrouded in mystery, all but unknown to the public. “It’s like New York’s best-kept secret,” said Dominick Dunne, whose novels of the rich and social feature characters modeled on the real clientele that Verdura cultivates.

Ward Landrigan, the man who currently presides over the cult, bought the business in 1984 after the death of its founder, Fulco di Verdura, an Italian duke who was almost universally known as Fulco. Mr. Landrigan is adored by customers, who clamor for his attentions, sometimes dropping by his Fifth Avenue salon simply to hang out. “To go in and just look makes me happy,” said Carolyne Roehm, sounding a bit like a latter-day Holly Golightly. “There’s so much beauty there.”

Fulco was born 100 years ago and developed a passion for design, friends in high places and a disregard for commercial concerns. Amy Fine Collins, who writes about fashion for Vanity Fair, said she considered him the century’s best links of london jewelry designer.

“No one can hold a candle to Verdura,” she said. “There is so much erudition and taste and fantasy involved in each of the pieces. It’s ultrasophisticated, and it takes more intelligence to appreciate the design. The jewelry is not for insecure people and does not appeal to the herd instinct. Women who wear Verdura don’t want to look like every other person wearing their Van Cleef diamond flower pin, their Chanel suit and their Prada bag.”

With its unorthodox combinations of materials, precious stones mixed with semiprecious, even shells and sea glass; novel motifs, and great wit, Verdura is not “hang a check around your neck” jewelry. It is the ultimate status symbol, recognized only by its initiates, who might wink at each other across a crowded room. “Like Volkswagen Beetles flashing each other, but not really,” one said.

Although most people may not have heard of Verdura, they may have seen the Links of London Charms jewelry in legendary photographs of the great style icons who wore it. (Think Garbo in a Cecil Beaton shot, wearing a gold chain-link bracelet and watch; Lauren Bacall with a brooch clipped to her skirt waistband; Millicent Rogers with a brooch on her shoulder, or Coco Chanel and Diana Vreeland in Verdura’s Maltese cross cuffs.)

Verdura designs have been widely imitated. Angela Cummings, Kenneth Jay Lane, Paloma Picasso, Seaman Schepps, Jean Schlumberger and David Webb have all incorporated Verdura inventions into their work.

When Mr. Lane bought shell cuff links in the 1960’s, Fulco told him: “I’m really giving them to you. After all, you paid for them with all the money you’ve made from my ideas.”

In the 1970’s, when Ms. Roehm was a design assistant at Oscar de la Renta, she was sent to Kenneth Jay Lane to pick up the copied Maltese cross cuffs for a fashion show. “I fell madly in love with them,” she recalled. They were $75 each, wholesale, and I was taking home $126 a week, so I had to save up for them.” A decade later when she had married Henry Kravis and, with the backing of his fortune, had started her own fashion house, she was able to buy a pair of the real thing, plus much more.

Chris Melhado, a money manager, whose mother, Mrs. Mann, was a great Verdura collector, had his own Verdura moment in 1995, on his 40th birthday.

Within the space of no more than 12 hours, he said, he was presented with three gifts from Verdura: two pairs of cuff links, one from his mother and one from Louise Grunwald, who was once married to his his father, Frederick Melhado, who gave him a silver pen. Since it was just a few days before Christmas and he was still searching for a gift for his wife, Teresa, he went there himself. “It’s much less intimidating than going to some other jewelry store,” he said. “It’s not the ‘breaking into a cold sweat’ experience.”

But marketing through exclusivity and social cachet may have seen its day. While other blue-chip jewelers have risen to the challenge of the more competitive 1990’s by selling perfumes and scarves, and by opening stores in malls around the country, Verdura has risked losing out by not adopting these strategies.

And so the jeweler has begun to demystify itself — hesitantly. It put a toe in the water last year with its first-ever print advertising campaign. “We felt the need to do it because of the advertising-driven society we live in, but we felt uncomfortable about it,” said Robert Dwy, Verdura’s director of marketing. Before long, he said, “we pulled out — it wasn’t fitting in.”

But Mr. Landrigan, 57, began lifting the veil in other ways. First, he abolished Verdura’s “by appointment only” policy. Then, Verdura entered the Academy Awards Links of London Necklaces jewelry competition for the first time earlier this year: jewelers offer loaners to stars attending the ceremonies with mutual promotion as the objective. Susan Sarandon and Linda Hamilton wore borrowed Verdura to the awards show in April.

Mr. Landrigan was persuaded to enter the Oscars game by Joan Rivers, a Verdura fan and client who mentioned the jewelry on her Oscar-night telecast on the E! Entertainment channel.

For nine years, Ms. Rivers’s line of costume jewelry, which she sells on QVC, has featured designs inspired by Verdura. Ms. Rivers readily acknowledges the influence and said she enjoys educating her audience about Verdura. “I go through the whole history,” she said. “Chanel is Verdura. Let’s all get real here. When things still work 60 years later, that’s when you know they’re great.”

It seems safe to say that rarely have two markets for similar products — the society figures who buy Verdura on Fifth Avenue, and the budget shoppers who tune in to QVC — had less in common.

Mr. Landrigan is not pleased by Ms. Rivers’s appropriation, especially, he said, when he hears customer complaints like this: “I don’t want the woman who’s doing my nails to be wearing earrings like mine.” But he remains philosophical. “It’s been going on forever, even in Verdura’s day,” he said. “If you’re copied in the fashion or Links of London Bracelets jewelry world today, you have to take it as a compliment.”

On Thursday, Mr. Landrigan opened the Verdura store in Palm Beach at 38 Via Mizner. (Verdura has been available in London each year, in June during the height of the social season and at Christmas, from Harry Fane’s upstairs showroom at 13 Duke Street. Diana, the Princess of Wales, wore several Verdura designs, including “pearls in bondage” earrings, based on a pair Verdura designed for the Duchess of Windsor.  Mick Jagger recently gave Jerry Hall a ruby and diamond “wrapped heart” brooch.

Andre Leon Talley, editor at large at Vogue, said he often borrows Verdura pieces to wear for evenings out. “Why not?” he said. “Men wore jewels in the 18th century. They carried fur muffs and wore powder and had beauty marks.”

He favors “anything that’s bombastic or big,” he added. “I’m 6 foot 8, so I try to get big-scale brooches.” He wears them pinned on a lapel or even on a fedora.

In the 1970’s, when Mr. Talley worked for Diana Vreeland at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, he saw Verdura at close range, in the form of the cuffs that Mrs. Vreeland “treated as a part of her uniform,” he said. And he remembered reading to her from Fulco’s childhood memoirs, “The Happy Summer Days,” published in 1976 and reissued last spring by Weidenfeld & Nicolson. He gave Jayne Wrightsman and Annette de la Renta copies at the haute couture shows in Paris in July, he said. (The book is required reading in these circles. Before its reissue, Heywood Hill, the London bookstore, kept a waiting list for secondhand copies. In 1985, when Mr. Landrigan added his name, it was just below Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’.)

Fulco di Verdura was born into an unconventional and aristocratic Sicilian family. In 1919, he inherited his father’s title and a small amount of money, which he squandered on one grand costume ball. In 1926, his professional life took focus when Linda Porter, the wife of his friend Cole Porter, introduced him to Chanel, who hired him as a textile designer. Recognizing his eye for color and sense of style, Chanel asked him to redesign her personal jewelry.

In 1939, Verdura opened his own small salon at 712 Fifth Avenue. There, to judge from his carefully preserved handwritten ledgers, he became a sort of crown jeweler to America’s aristocracy, from the Astors to the Whitneys.

Fulco retired in 1973 and died in 1978. Mr. Landrigan, who had been the head of Sotheby’s Links of London Bangles jewelry department, left the auction house in 1973 to become a private dealer and began an 11-year courtship, which ended with his buying the firm from Fulco’s partner, Joseph Alfano. In 1984, with an inventory of 35 pieces and Fulco’s sketchbooks containing designs for over 5,000 pieces, Mr. Landrigan set up shop at 745 Fifth Avenue, just north of 57th Street. The production of new Verdura designs, based on the originals, is overseen by Mr. Landrigan’s partner, Maria Kelleher Williams, and executed by its workshops in New York and Europe.

The reactions of Verdura’s long-time customers to its attempts at expanding its market have been mixed. When told of a young would-be socialite’s interest in Verdura, Ms. Collins sighed and said: “Well, let her buy the pieces I can’t afford. It’ll keep Ward in business. You can’t keep the world pure, but you can try.”

But Mr. Talley said: “The more, the merrier. After all, the Babe Paleys are no longer with us.”

Although cuff links never quite disappeared from the scene, current interest sees them as a final touch to a new ”dressy Establishment Look” which also includes more colored French-cuffed shirts, pocket handerchiefs folded into breast pockets in multipoint effect, and sometimes even unusual stickpins.

It was, in fact, an unusual stickpin in the corner window of an old established links of london jewelry and silver firm, Plante & Johnson at 11 Bury Street in St. James’s, which caught the eye of exhibitor Paul Longmire in 1979. Within a week Mr. Longmire had purchased not only the stickpin but the entire business, where he continues the 70-year-old tradition of supplying the Royal Family, through Royal Warrants of Appointment, with presentation gifts in leather, silver, and gold.

Since he opened his shop six years ago with but three pairs of cuff links on hand, Longmire has become something of a specialist. He has his own workshops and teams of skilled craftsmen for making today’s cuff links, many of them custom designed for individuals, companies, organizations, and American Ivy League colleges. These are made in 18-carat gold, silver, silver gilt, and gilded base metal, and the designs are put on by means of enameling or engraving. Prices range from about (STR)75 ($100 US) to (STR)1400 ($1,900 US), and sometimes even as high as (STR)7500 ($10,000 US) and over when they are set with gem stones such as rubies and diamonds.

”Today,” says Longmire, plucking numerous specimens out of trays, ”we always have between 500 and 600 pairs in stock, and we sell them all over the world.

”Seventy percent of those we display in our Edwardian shop windows are old ones, dating back to the heydey of cuff links from the 19th century up to the beginning of World War I, and again through the 1930s until the austerity dressing of World War II,” explains the dealer who sells not only cuff links but other 19th- and 20th-century Links of London Charms jewelry, as well as various ”portable antiques.”

Demands from clients vary widely, from those who want very personal cuff links decorated with family crests, clan tartans, and pictures of houses, grandchildren, and animals to those who want designs based on their polo playing, golfing, tennis playing, or racing colors.

”We have instant retrieval of almost 16,000 different armorial crests,” says Longmire, ”and access to over 160,000 coats of arms through reference books in the company archives. We have also found the dies of some old Edwardian designs and are now making them in contemporary colors.” The dealer himself was wearing regimental cuff links in 18-carat gold when we talked.

About 20 percent of the cuff links he sells are for use by women, he says, and all the designs that men like for their cuff links are also reproduced in brooches and pendants for women.

Some men are collectors of cuff links and own up to 100 pairs, changing them often. Some make do with one conventional and classic set, plain gold with their initials engraved. ”We sell a lot of full-dress sets for formal wear to men in the states. These consist of a pair of cuff links and three studs for the shirt and four buttons for the waistcoat,” he explains.

Why the renewed interest in cuff links? ”Men have been neglected for a long while when it comes to jewelry,” Longmire contends. ”A man doesn’t necessarily want to affect a tiepin. There really isn’t much room for the poor chap who loves to buy jewelry for his wife but doesn’t see much opportunity to buy Links of London Necklaces jewelry for himself that indicates something of his own character. As a man becomes a bit affluent, however, he soon discovers that cuff links can be an expression of his own individual taste and he begins to invest in jewelry for himself. For myself, I also enjoy mid-19th century stickpins because they are out of the ordinary and often have a sense of humor and a slighty quirky quality all their own.”

Meanwhile, inquiries on this side of the Atlantic indicate lively interest in cuff links in New York as well. Edward Munves, of James Robinson Inc. on 57th Street, explains that ”most of our men customers do not want to wear bracelets or necklaces but prefer the idea of cuff links for adding a bit of color and design to their dress. Certainly we are finding that executives are wearing far more cuff links now than before. Most of ours were made between 1890 and 1940, and prices range from about $400 to $1,200, with big jeweled ones bringing $3,000.”

Links of London Bracelets require double or French cuffs on shirts, but there is no shortage. Custom Shop Shirtmakers, with six stores in New York, offers, as always, a side range of shirts with French cuffs and announces that its own line of cuff links, old and new, is moving well. Brooks Brothers, that bastion of sartorial correctness, indicates it has had a strong season for basic colored all-cotton shirts with French cuffs, and a corresponding demand for cuff links, those set with onyx and lapis lazuli selling best.

“If possible, invest in more precious jewellery and stay away from pieces that appear too flashy,” says Bridget King, jewellery designer and founder of label Brigetta. “If you’re not sure if  it’s appropriate  for work, then it’s probably not.”

Rebecca Ip, managing director at Tiffany & Co in Hong Kong and Macau, says timeless, versatile designs work well.  “It’s important that jewellery can go  from day to night,”  she says.

As a starting point, King suggests classic diamond studs. If you’re on a budget, simple pearl earrings may be the answer. White is timeless, but black studs are more unusual and can also be worn in the evening.  For the neck, she suggests  avoiding pieces that are too chunky or bold. A thin chain with design details or a pendant works well with a button-down shirt or suit jacket.

Tiffany & Co’s Diamonds by  the Yard collection by Elsa Peretti features thin gold chains dotted  with small diamonds,  and Georg Jensen’s Fusion collection  includes an unusually shaped pendant  on a white gold chain. For sterling silver designs, check out jewellers such as Folli Follie or links of london.

Eve Roth Lindsay of Savvy Style, Colour Me Beautiful HK says a  nice ring is  vital, but should be kept simple. Avoid oversized cocktail rings and go for styles with a single, smaller stone. Semi-precious stones are a stylish alternative to diamonds and are best in neutral tones such  as grey, light yellow and brown, and stones like smoky quartz, citrine and topaz. Tayma Fine jewellery stocks a  full range of semi-precious jewellery,  and pieces by younger designers  such as Citrine by the Stones  are available at Lane Crawford.

If rings don’t suit, consider  a bracelet such as the Alea by  Hermès, which features the brand’s signature Links of London Rings design.

White  and yellow gold always work,  and rose gold adds a modern touch.

“Be careful of  gold-plated jewellery as it will tarnish,” says Lindsay. “You’re better off buying Links of London Charms item and wearing it every day  rather than a tired looking piece.”

On casual days women  should nevertheless avoid anything that makes too much of a statement.

“Hoop earrings that are slightly larger still give you that pulled-together feel,” says King. “Layered necklaces can accent a  casual outfit, as can gold or silver cuffs. But don’t over-accessorise as it  can make you appear less professional.”

Lindsay says: “Women should always count to  five before they leave the house:  one – earrings;   two – necklace;  three – watch; and four and five – a ring on each hand.”

As a jewellery chain that started out as a wet fish business, Links of London Charms has turned out to be a good catch.

The business was founded 10 years ago when chairman John Ayton’s wife and business partner, Annoushka Ducas, designed a range of silver fish cufflinks. They were Christmas presents for the chefs who bought from her business.

After selling the surplus cufflinks to a department store, Ducas and Ayton realised there was a demand for the product. Two years later, the couple opened their first store, in the City.

Ayton says: “The retail side came out of a desire to see the product we designed in its own environment.”

In 1995, Links of London Necklaces opened its first airport store, which was followed two years later by the debut of its first international store, in Hong Kong. The retailer now has a presence in France, Italy, Germany, the Middle East and Singapore.

At present, Links has 14 stores in the UK and eight overseas. It recently opened its first US shop in New York and expects to open its first stores in China this year. It is also investigating the potential of Spain and Portugal. More US stores are slated for this year.

Over the next three years, the retailer plans to open up to 50 new stores, and has set its sights on flotation in the longer term.

Primarily a men’s gift business, Links expanded into women’s jewellery in 1995, with the women’s range now making up 40 per cent of the business.

There are also plans to increase Links of London Bracelets wholesale business.

At present, the company has around 50 wholesale accounts in the UK and the same number abroad.

For the year to the end of this month, the retailer expects sales of around GBP 14 million, rising to GBP 21 million next year.

Links drafted in its first managing director, former Hackett boss Gareth Morris, last year.

Ayton and Ducas will focus on strategic development and adding more polish to the retail chain.

LINKS OF LONDON

Founded: 1990

Number of stores: 14 in the UK, plus eight overseas

Sales: GBP 14 million for year to end-January 2001

Buying a Pink Ticket will entitle you to receive generous discounts, free gifts and services from the majority of stores in the area, selling everything from top fashion brands and accessories to interiors, fine wine and food. Some of the treats include a free pink manicure and 10 per cent discount at Links of London Necklaces, a free arm and hand massage at Jo Malone, a free makeover and goodie bag at Peter Jones, pink champagne truffles at the General Trading Company and a 20 per cent discount on anything pink at Gieves & Hawkes. There will also be live bands and street theatre to entertain you throughout the evening. For a full list of offers, visit www.linksoflondon.com.

All proceeds from the sale of Pink Tickets, together with 10 per cent of retailers’ sales on that day, will be donated to Breast Cancer Haven.

HOW TO BOOK To book your Pink Tickets at £20 each, simply call 0871 230 4424 or visit www.ticketmaster.co.uk Breast Cancer Haven believes that no one should have to face breast cancer alone. The charity is committed to creating a national network of day centres, or Havens, offering free information, advice, counselling and a wide range of complementary therapies for women and their families affected by the illness. For more details, visit www.breastcancerhaven.org.uk.

The Haven Trust Registered Charity No: 1061726 LIST OF PARTICIPATING STORES A La Mode, Agnes B, Also Caramel, Anta Scotland, Cassandra Goad, Cobra & Bellamy, Crew Clothing Co, Emma Hope, Franchetti Bond, French Sole, Furla, Fushi, Gabriela Ligenza Hats, Georgina von Etzdorf, Geronimo Inns, Gieves & Hawkes, General Trading Company, Hackett, Heidi Klein, I Blues, Jigsaw, Jo Malone, John Smedley, Kate Kuba, Links of London Bracelets, The Little White Company, London Furniture Company, Lulu Guinness, Maria Grachvogel, Marlowe, Moyses Stevens, Pantalon Chameleon, Peter Jones, Phase Eight, Pickett, Pulbrook & Gould, Ronit Zilkha, Secrets Shhh, Selina Blow, Simply Nico, Smythson of Bond Street, Tiffany & Co, Whistles, The White Company, Yves Delorme.

The 16 Sloane Square flagship will be situated between a new Tiffany & Co shop and the Peter Jones department store, while the original Links of London Charms flagship at 160 Sloane Street will close.

‘The time was right for a much bigger and bolder store in what we believe to be our natural environment,’ explains Links of London chairman and co-founder John Ayton.

According to Ayton, interiors will have a pronounced ‘feminine’ feel, reflecting the company’s changing customer base, which is now 75 per cent female.

The 437m2 flagship will feature a 186m2 retail space with product design and repair areas. Zervudachi, who was appointed in November, will work on ‘every aspect’ of the interiors, ‘right down to details of display and point-of-sale’, Ayton says.

The London flagship’s opening will follow the launch of a Princes Square store in Glasgow in March, designed by Links of London Necklaces in-house designer Ullises Beluchio.

”There’s no question that men are buying more links of london jewelry,” said Toby Landey, president of Sentimento, a wholesaler of vintage jewelry to stores like Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Polo/Ralph Lauren. ”We’re selling an enormous amount of cuff links and tie bars.” Ms. Landey has also noticed an uptick in sales of jewelry for formal wear, including studs with animal motifs or with diamond, malachite or garnet insets. Love knots – the classic braided button-style cuff links – in silver or gold are also popular, from $100 to $400. (Less expensive fabric versions are available at Paul Stuart and other men’s stores.) Art Deco black onyx cuff links and studs remain her strongest sellers, she said.

For the more fanciful, Sentimento stocks collar bars, stickpins, pocket watches, fobs, mustache combs and pocket knives. ”Anything the traditional English gentleman might have worn,” Ms. Landey said, adding that that does not include earrings.

A rise in sales of French-cuff shirts has triggered a concomitant increase in cuff-link consumption, said Tom Kalendarian, the merchandise manager for men’s furnishings at Barneys New York.

”Antique cuff links have been a consistent seller since we opened,” said Paul Smith, the English designer. In the store that bears his name, at Fifth Avenue and 15th Street, even the denim shirts have holes for cuff links. ”I like to wear a very over-the-top pair with a chambray shirt,” he said. ”I tend to go with putting the wrong things together to get a different look.”

American Casual Look

Mr. Smith recently discovered a cache of 1950’s British plaid Links of London Charm in a factory in the East End of London. Assembled and reboxed, the pieces sell for $30. His store also sells sets of tie bars and cuff links enameled with figures of mountaineers, boxers, tennis players and golfers for $45.

The tie bar, or clasp, is by all accounts an American innovation, part of our penchant for casual dressing. Most proper British men, for example, wear either a double-breasted or three-piece suit, making a tie clasp irrelevant. When worn properly, however, the tie bar enhances the presentation of a tie, giving it spring and a little upward push to a well-tied knot.

Most men wear their tie bars horizontally, cutting straight across the tie. Given that the basic patterning of men’s ties tends to be at an angle, wearing the tie bar at a downward angle, as Fred Astaire did, adds a touch of style.

But how high to put it? When the jacket is buttoned at the middle button, the tie bar should not be visible. (Of course, on a low-slung, single-button Giorgio Armani jacket, a garment that observes no rules to begin with, anything goes.)

Keeping Collars Down

Collar pins – and the perforated shirts that accept them – are back, as well. Whether screw-on or safety-pin in design, the collar pin adds a bit of interest to the collar and tie while holding them in place throughout the day.

For the ultimate in men’s jewelry, the James Robinson shop at 15 East 57th Street carries vintage pieces and heirlooms, from antique signet rings engraved with coats of arms and family crests at $850 to $3,000, to dress studs at $750 for a gold set and a sapphire-and-diamond studded set including vest buttons at $87,000.

Kim Harwood, the store’s manager, has noted a ”tremendous increase” in sales of fine men’s Links of London Necklace jewelry since the store began stocking such items a decade ago.

The store also sells pearl-handled silver-bladed pocket knives, which at $750 to $1,250 are an expensive way to keep your nails clean.